May 18, 2014

Industrial Photoshoot

Today we took the Amazon for a photoshoot.
It's an Industrial area just a couple of miles away from were I live.
Sunday is the best day to do it because there's less traffic, actually there was no traffic at all..
Here are the results... Next week or so we gonna try a photoshoot at night in the same area.

Volvo Amazon
Volvo 122S B20B 1969

Volvo Amazon
Industrial photo shoot Volvo 122S B20B 1969

Volvo 122S Amazon 1969 blue 99
Industrial photo shoot Volvo 122S B20B 1969

Industrial photo shoot Volvo 122S B20B 1969

Industrial photo shoot Volvo 122S B20B 1969

Industrial photo shoot Volvo 122S B20B 1969

Volvo 122S B20B 1969
Industrial photo shoot Volvo 122S B20B 1969

Volvo Amazon
Industrial photo shoot Volvo 122S B20B 1969

Volvo 122S mediterranean blue 99
Industrial photo shoot Volvo 122S B20B 1969

Volvo Amazon B20B 1969
Industrial photo shoot Volvo 122S B20B 1969

Volvo Amazone B20B 1969
Industrial photo shoot Volvo 122S B20B 1969

Volvo Amazon medium blue 99
Industrial photo shoot Volvo 122S B20B 1969

Volvo Amazone
Industrial photo shoot Volvo 122S B20B 1969

May 5, 2014

K camshaft Volvo 122S

When I rebuilt the B20B engine the original C camshaft was replaced with a sportier (+12 HP) new K cam.
The valve clearance for an original B20B engine is 0.50 - 0.55 mm, so that's what I used for the first 200 miles.or so. However the valve clearance for a K camshaft in it's original engine, the B20E from 1974, should be 0.40 - 0.45 mm.

K-camshaft Volvo B20
K-camshaft Volvo B20

There's a lot of info on Internet about camshafts and they all say that the camshaft dictates the valve clearance.

Specifications Volvo K-cam
Specifications Volvo K-cam

It made me wonder what the impact of a bigger or smaller valve clearance would be upon engine performance.

Let's take the valve clearance 0.50 -0.55 mm (original C-cam) used  for a K-cam which should be 0.40- 0.45 mm (in its original engine). So the clearance for the K-cam is 0.1 mm too big.
A bigger than advised clearance is bad for you engine as the rocker will "hammer" the valve harder than normal, especially when the lobes are steep, and the valve will hit the valve seat with a higher than desired speed.....
Valve clearance too big
Valve clearance too big


Valve lash too big animation
Valve lash too big animation

A too big valve lash will also create a smaller overlap (time that both the inlet and outlet valve are open), shorten the duration and give less lift, so less power (because the greater the lift the greater the power at all rpm). Hmmm...., ok first some cam basics:


Cam basics


Camshaft lobe basics
Camshaft Lobe basics

Normally the lash ramp is less steep than the opening and closing ramp, which will result in a lower velocity (speed) of the valve. If your valve lash/clearance is to big the push rod will already have reached a high speed before it  hammers the rocker, the rocker will smash the valve stem and the valve will smash the valve seat. Driving too long with a too big valve clearance will damage the engine for sure.




The duration (duration of the valve lift) is the time that a valve is open during a cycle. For the K-cam it's 277°. If you know the intake opening and closing moment you can also calculate the duration; opening 27° before TDC + closing after 70° BDC +180° (from TDC till BDC is always 180°) = 277°
You have to realise that normally the cam angle specifications are given in crankshaft degrees. One turn of the camshaft is equal to two turns of the crankshaft. So the 277°advertised duration is only 138.5° on the cam. To make it even more complex; A cam can have more duration numbers. Duration normally refers to the number of crankshaft degrees that the lift is greater than a specified value, e.g. duration at 0.050 lift. So it's really important to know the specified value when talking about the duration of a cam.
The earlier mentioned 277° duration is based on 0.020 inch lift. When we take the angles at 0.050 inch lift, 0° and 42°, the duration will be 222°. So if you want to compare camshafts keep this in mind!
The K-cam has the same  intake and exhaust duration, if the opening and closing time for  intake and exhaust aren't the Intake- and Exhaust Duration will be different.

Overlap: The time between the the  intake Valve opening point BTDC and the Exhaust Valve closing point ATDC, in crankshaft degrees.
Formula to calculate Overlap:
 intake opens + Exhaust closes
K-cam: 27° + 27° = 54°

Lobe Centerlines: The  intake centerline is the point of highest lift on the  intake lobe. It is expressed in crankshaft degrees after top dead center (ATDC). Likewise the exhaust centerline is the point of highest lift on the exhaust lobe. It is expressed in crankshaft degrees before top dead center (BTDC). The cam centerline is the point halfway between the intake and exhaust centerlines.
Formula to calculate the Centerlines:

Exhaust Centerline: Exhaust duration/2 - Exhaust closes
K-Cam: 277°/2 - 27° = 111.5°

Intake Centerline : Intake duration/2 - Inlet opens
K-Cam: 277°/2 - 27° = 111.5°

LSA: The angle between the intake and exhaust camshaft lobe peaks in camshaft degrees.
Formula to calculate the Lobe Separation Angle (LSA):
(Centerline Exhaust + Centerline Inlet) /2
K-cam: (111.5° + 111.5°) / 2 = 111.5°

Valve events graph Volvo K-cam
Valve events graph Volvo K-cam

Back to the quote "the greater the lift the greater the power at all rpm", is this true?  Yes, as long as the valve won't hit the piston and as long as the valve is big enough... let me try to explain the valve part:
Under ideal circumstances (perfect valve clearance), according to above given K-cam specifications, the max valve lift should be 10.67 mm. When the valve clearance is 0,1 mm bigger the max valve lift will be only 10.57 mm. so, will you loose power? The answer is it depends on the valve diameter.
Actually it's possible to calculate the maximum effective valve lift. It isn't hard to imagine that the maximum flow can never be greater than the area of the valve. First let's calculate the valve area; For the B20B 1969 engine the inlet valve diameter is 42 mm and the valve stem diameter is ca 7.96 mm.

The valve area is 0.25 x Pi(ca. 3.14) x valve diam² --> 0.25 x 3.14 (Pi) x 42² = 1384.74 mm² MINUS area valve stem 0.25 x Pi x valve stem diam (7.96 mm)² = 49.74 mm² --> 1335 mm²
Keep this in mind for later.

Area and max effective valve lift explained
Area and max lift


When a valve opens there's a three dimensional area that becomes bigger the further the valve opens. The formula to calculate this area is A = 2 x Pi x r x h. (r = half the diameter of the valve, h = lift of the valve). When A is the same as the area of the valve  it has reached the maximum flow, in other words the valve isn't obstructing the air flow anymore.  Let's calculate A for a K-cam in combination with a 42 mm inlet valve  -->  A =  2 x 3.14(Pi) x 21(r) x 10.67(h) = 1407.16 mm². So the K-cam lift is more than enough for my B20 engine with 42 mm inlet valves (because A = bigger than the valve area).

The maximum effective valve lift for my B20 engine is 10.12 mm (calculate h when A = 1335 mm²), the K-cam in my B20 engine will lift the valves an extra 0.10 mm (10.67 -10.22 - 0.45 mm valve lash) but it won't create more power.

The original engine (B20E) has a 44 mm inlet valve diam , so the calculated Valve area is 1519.76 - 49.74 =  1470.02 mm². The calculated A = 2 x 3.14 x 22 x 10.67 = 1474.17 mm² The maximum effective lift is 10.64 mm (1470.02/2/3.14/22 =10.64 mm). So to unleash all the power, the max lift (10.67 mm), minus the valve clearance must be at least 10.64 mm. But because the valve clearance for the K-cam is 0.40 - 0.45 mm the maximum valve lift will be only 10.22 mm (10.67-0.45 mm lash).

Are you still there? I know...
Luckily there's a rule of thumb that you can use to estimate the maximum effective lift:
Max effective valve lift is around 24-25% of the valve disc diameter.

Another important rule of thumb is: The exhaust valve area should be 75% to 80% of the intake valve area; since the exhaust gasses are less dense and under more pressure, the exhaust valve can be smaller than the intake valve. Note that this is area of the valve and not diameter.   
Let's take the 42 mm intake valve to calculate the diameter of the exhaust valve:
1384.74 mm² x 77%  = 1066.25 mm² = Exhaust valve area.
10.66.25/0.25/3.14 = 1358.28 = exhaustdiameter².
Exhaust diameter = 36.85 mm


Of course I didn't want burned valves, this can happen when the valve lash is too small, especially when driving at high rpm. Valves, especially the exhaust valves need a certain amount of  "contact time" with the valve seat in the cylinder head so they can get rid of the build up heat during the opening time of the valve (duration). 
The 1974 Volvo B20E engine with the original K-cam has exactly the same exhaust valves and valve seat width (width of the valve seat edge that's making contact with the valve when closed), but the inlet valve disc diameter is 44 mm instead of the 42 mm in the 1969 B20B, this will make it a bit hard to compare.


Volvo B18 and B20 engine specifications
Volvo B18 and B20 engine specifications

But ...The B20B has a lower compression ratio (CR), 9.5:1 vs. 10.5:1 in the B20E.

The higher the CR, the higher the cylinder pressure, the higher the cylinder temperature. The higher the compression ratio, the colder the spark plug needs to be. A good rule of thumb is to go about one heat range colder for each full point in compression ratio increase.  The term hot/cold is commonly used to describe whether a spark plug heats up easily (hot) or whether it provides resistance to heating up (cold).

The only thing is that Volvo advised a hotter spark for the early B20E than they did for the early B20B, which could indicate that the operating temperature of the B20E is a bit lower than the B20B.

But as the exhaust valves in the B20B and B20E are the same and this B20 engine has now hardened exhaust valve seats and a clean good working cooling system, I'm willing to take the risk, so I adjusted all the valve clearances to 0.45 mm and set the jets a bit richer. This resulted in a better driving 122S and a less noisy engine. I can still hear the tappets ticking but not as loud as before.


Volvo 122S
Volvo 122S

Apr 11, 2014

Dashboard lights in the Volvo Amazon

When I built in a new radio under the dash I kept the disconnected old school radio in the dashboard. According to the invoice it was installed in Brisbane in January 1971. It isn't working anymore but it's still a really cool piece of art.

Invoice 1971 National Car Radio Volvo Amazon
Invoice 1971 National Car Radio

Just out of curiosity I opened the radio to check the inside.

Inside the old National Car Radio Volvo Amazon
Inside the old National Car Radio

Aha, a 9 mm bulb holder with a 4W clear bulb in it ,that's an easy fix. I replaced the clear bulb with a green one and disconnected the + lead from the pot-meter.

Disconnection the power lead early 70's National Car Radio
Disconnection the power lead

Testing the car radio light Volvo Amazon
Testing the rewired car radio light

Before I closed the radio I tested the bulb, all good. The light is now connected to the light switch in the Volvo.

Broken old school radio now in use as an extra dashboard light
Broken old school radio now in use as an extra dashboard light

Old school seventies Car Radio Volvo 122S
Close up

I also wanted to replace the smaller 7 mm bulb in the tacho for a green one but still couldn'f find one. So I took a pemanent marker and coloured the bulb, not perfect but it looks better than the clear version.

Removing the bulb holder from the Smiths tachocVolvo Amazon
Removing the bulb holder from the Smiths tacho

9 mm 4W standard - and 7 mm 2W tacho bulb 12V
9 mm 4W standard - and 7 mm 2W tacho bulb

"coloured" green tacho lightbulb
"painted" tacho lightbulb

Smiths tacho with green back light
Smiths tacho with green back light

Even the clear shelf light  wasn't safe and replaced by a green version.

Green shelf light Volvo Amazon
Green shelf light Volvo 122S

Dashboard lights Volvo Amazon
Dashboard lights Volvo Amazon

Speedo meter Volvo Amazon
OK, one more



Mar 29, 2014

Volvo 122S B20B engine - More tuning


Piston Drop Test SU HS6 carburetters


As you maybe know you may never swap the air chambers from your SU carbs. They (the air chamber and piston) are a factory matched pair. If you swap them or swap the pistons you'll probably get air leaks between the piston and the chamber which will result in an bad response to your throttle.
As I bought the Volvo 122s with twin SU HS6 carbies second hand I wasn't sure if the air chambers were on the matching carbies. But luckily there's a test which will determine if they're OK. This test is also known as the piston drop test.

  • Loosen the 3 bolts from the suction chamber and take it off
  • Remove the spring from the piston
  • Remove the piston from of carburetter and get rid of the ATF in it
  • leave the needle on the piston
  • close the two holes in the bottom of the piston (I used a piece of a round rubber seal and made it thicker by wrapping it in aluminum tape)
  • Remove the damper from the chamber
  • Put the air chamber up side down on the bench and put the piston back in
  • Hold the bottom of the piston flush with the edge of the air chamber (you can use the needle to hold the piston flush) and then let it sink in the air chamber
  • If there are no abnormal air leaks this should take between 5-7 seconds 
  • If it's faster there's something wrong / wear (hopefully they're only swapped)
  • If it's way slower clean the air chamber (you can use wax and grease remover and coarse polish to clean the suction chamber)
Most important thing is that the piston drop time is (almost) the same for both carburetters.
Measuring the SU HS6 carburetter piston drop time
Measuring the SU carburetter piston drop time 

Holes in the piston plugged for the SU-HS6 piston drop test Volvo Amazon
Holes in the piston plugged for the piston drop test

Part of Honda CB750 rubber oil filter seal used as plugs for SU piston drop test
Part of Honda CB750 rubber oil filter seal used as plugs

SU HS6 carbie Piston drop test


Synchronising SU carburettors

Another nice gadget tool is the Uni-Syn. With this tool is fairly easy to synchronise the SU carbies. I know that you can achieve almost the same results by listening to the "hiss" sound. But as I wasn't born as an experienced hiss listener this tool is helping me to become one..

Uni-Syn

Uni-Syn synchronisation tool

Instructions Uni-Syn

Instructions Uni-Syn


Tip: First check the airflow for both carbies without disconnecting the throttle, maybe they're already synchronised and it will save you the hassle. If there not synchronised loosen nut (1) and follow the instructions. If they're synchronised you need 0.3mm play between the lower tooth of the levers of the throttle spindles and rod on both sides. Because this is a hard to reach place for a feeler gauge I disconnected (2) and (4), let the rod rest on the lower tooth of the lever that's not loose en push the loose lower tooth of the lever softly against the rod and then fasten the nut (1) again. Now you can achieve the exact same play for both by turning (3) in or out. Another way to do this (when both levers of the throttle spindles are loose) you can find here: http://volvo-122s.blogspot.com.au/2013/07/tuning-volvo-b20b-engine.html


Synchronising Volvo 122S B20B SU carburettors with Uni-Syn
Synchronising SU carburettors with Uni-Syn

Synchronising SU carburettors
You can also use the Uni-Syn to synchronise the choke on your carburettors.


Creating the right air/fuel mixture

In order to create the right mixture I turned the  mixture screws out a bit more then the specifications from Volvo/SU. This because the petrol nowadays has a lower octane (91-98) level than back in the sixties (100+). This will make the mixture a bit leaner. So turning out the mixture screws a couple of extra flats will compensate for the lower octane.
To check of the mixture is right, lift the piston a bit with a screwdriver or use the SU carburettors lift pin;
  • If the idle falls or the engine stalls, it's too lean
  • If the idle rises and stays high, it's too rich
  • If the idle rises a little bit and then falls back to normal, it's the right mixture 
Checking the air/fuel mixture Volvo Amazon B20B
Checking the air/fuel mixture

A nice gadget tool to check your settings is the Colortune. It's a spark plug with a clear glass window that makes it possible to have real look into the combustion chamber and see the explosions while the engine is running. Looks really nice in a dark shed ;)
The right setting will give the explosion a nice blue color. To rich is orange and too lean is white/ very light blue.
I like to set the carbie a bit rich (orange) and then turn the mixture screw back in until the colour changes to Bunsen blue with here and there a orange spot, especially when revving the engine..See the diagnostic chart with all the colours  (or must I say colors..) below.

Gunson Colortune Diagnostic Chart
Gunson Colortune Diagnostic Chart

Bunsen blue colour first cylinder Volvo 122S B20B engine
Bunsen blue colour first cylinder

Colortune tuning tool Volvo B20B engine
Colortune tuning tool


Blue colour (sometimes whitish --> a bit lean)

Yellow / rich colour

Mar 26, 2014

Smiths tacho in Volvo Amazon

The Volvo 123GT was the first Amazon with a tacho (see the genuine 1968 Volvo 123GT brochure I got with the car :-)). Back in the late sixties this 52 mm revolution counter became an accessory for the Volvo 122S.

Genuine Volvo 123GT brochure 1968 (cover)
Genuine Volvo 123GT sales brochure 1968 (cover)

Genuine Volvo 123GT sales brochure 1968 page 2 + 3
Genuine Volvo 123GT sales brochure 1968  page 2 + 3 with
 Smiths Volvo revolution counter RVI 5411/00A
Tip: if you right-click on a pic you can choose to open the pic in a new window which allows you to view it in full size.

accessoire Smiths Volvo Amazon tacho (RVI 5413/00)
Original  accessory revolution counter in Volvo Amazon

The original 123GT Smiths Volvo tacho (RVI 5411/00A) has an orange needle, chrome bezel and a 7000 rpm dial scaled from 10-70 (x100), the accessory Smiths Volvo tacho (RVI 5413/00) has a white needle, matte silver/grey bezel and is scaled 1-7 (x1000). In the genuine Volvo accessories catalogue, Volvo placed a picture of the GT model which wasn't the one you could buy as an  accessory. Both of these rev counters are hard to find nowadays.
Genuine Volvo accessories catalogue Smiths revolution counter
Genuine Volvo accessories catalogue

The letter RVI on the Smiths tacho's indicates that it's a current impulse triggered tacho. You also have the newer  RVC (voltage triggered) Smiths tacho's. I've heard that if you put electronic ignition (eg 123) in your car your RVI tacho wouldn't work anymore... But if you change the wiring you could fix this problem: connect the tachometer with the two white wires in series between the 123ignition distributor ground wire and the ignition coil negative. That should solve the problem.

A couple of weeks ago I found a nice 60's/70's revolution counter on Internet.  This one (RVI 5414/00A) has the same shape but doesn't have the Volvo brand on the dial.

Smiths rev counter  RVI 5414/00A
Smiths tacho  RVI 5414/00A

Smiths revolution counter  RVI 5414/00A
Smiths tacho  RVI 5414/00A with 8000 rpm dial

Smiths tacho  RVI 5414/00A with 8000 rpm dial
Smiths tacho  RVI 5414/00A inside

In order to install the tacho I had to drill a 12mm hole in my dashboard, all the way trough the metal. It's a bit hard to drill a vertical hole from the top with the windscreen in the car so I drilled a very small hole with a small battery drill from the top to mark the position and drilled the big hole from underneath the dashboard.

The rev counter has 5 wires:
  1. white/red = light
  2. black = ground
  3. white = coil
  4. white with green label = distributor 
  5. white with red label = power
How to wire the RVI tacho RVI 5414 Volvo Amazon
How to wire the RVI tacho
Before you start connecting all the wires, disconnect the battery! Make sure you completely remove the (black) original wire between the coil and distributor. Keep in mind that, when your tacho (wiring) is broken, you cannot start your car. If the rpm counter is acting funny swap the wires from the coil and distributor.

Smiths rev counter  RVI 5414/00A Volvo 122S
Smiths tacho  RVI 5414/00A

Smiths revolution counter  RVI 5414/00A
Smiths rpm counter  on top of dashpad

Smiths tacho  RVI 5414/00A in Volvo Amazon
Smiths tacho  RVI 5414/00A in Volvo 122S 1969

After a couple of hours the tacho was installed and everything worked like it should be.
There's only one little thing and that's the white light in the Smiths rpm counter...  this was originally a green light like the rest of the dashboard lights. But that's easy to fix.

White tacho light - green dashboard lights Volvo Amazon
White tacho light - green dashboard lights