Jun 15, 2014

Tie rods and Steering track rods ends replaced

One of the things I still had to do was replacing the tie rods and steering track rod ends. When I checked their ball joints when I was rebuilding the front axle they felt ok., no measurable play. But after driving the Amazon for a couple of 100 miles I got the idea the steering wheel wasn't connected at all... aquaplaning when it hasn't rained a drop for weeks... excessive play and getting worse every mile.

The right way to check the ball joints of the rods is to get big pliers and grab the joint; if they're ok it isn't possible to press the bolt in. I must admit the first time I checked them I did it with my bare hands, no brainwave, no pliers.. stupid me....
I checked the ball joints of the rods again and there was a ridiculous amount of play. No need for pliers this time, the weight of an ant was enough to show the play...
When I checked them the first time they were probably filled with rust and old grease giving the same feel as a new one.

Exessive play, most obvious around 54 seconds

 Time for new rods!

I started with the Steering rod . I used a ball joint splitter to get the track rod ends out of the arms. Then I measured the overall length so the toe in would stay the same (well...I hoped it would stay the same..).

Left steering track rod end Volvo Amazon
Left steering track rod end Volvo 122S

Steering rod Volvo 122S
Steering rod Volvo Amazon

Steering rod removed Volvo 122S
Steering rod removed Volvo 122S



The steering track rod ends are different on each side. On the left hand side (seen from sitting in the car) the thread is opposite of what you are used to. The right one has a normal thread. This will give you the possibility to turn the steering rod and thus in- or decrease the toe-in. Turning the steering rod in the same direction as the wheels when driving forward will  increase the toe-in, turning the steering rod the other way will decrease the toe in.

Steering track rods old and new Volvo 122S
Steering track rods old and new Volvo 122S


Different threads left and right steering track rod ends Vovlo Amazon
Different threads left and right steering track rod ends

After replacing the steering rod ends I started disconnecting the left tie rod. Again using the ball joint splitter.
This replacement  is pretty straight forward and won't take long. I protected the new rims with some rags while splitting the joint.

Splitting the tie rod joints Volvo 122S
Splitting the tie rod joints

Protecting the GT rims while splitting the tie rod joint Volvo 122S
Protecting the GT rims while splitting the tie rod joint

With the tie rods you also have a left (L) and a right (R) side one. 

Left (L) and (R) tie rod Volvo 122S
Left (L) and (R) tie rod Volvo 122S

As can be seen in the previous pics, the castle nuts with split pen were replaced with nyloc nuts. When I tried to tighten the nuts the "bolt" from the joint started to turn, making it impossible to tighten the nut. So I put a jack underneath the joint and pushed it a bit (not too pressure!) so I could tighten the nyloc nuts with a 37 Newton meter torque.


Pushing the rod in the pitman arm Volvo Amazon
Pushing the rod in the arm

After all the new steering parts were fitted I drove the Volvo to a tyre centre to get a wheel alignment. It's best to do this straight away, otherwise you need new tyres within a couple of thousand miles.

At a wheel alignment they will check and adjust the Camber, Caster and Toe-in.
Camber is angle between the vertical axis of the wheels used for steering and the vertical axis of the car when viewed from front.

Camber
Camber

Caster is the angle created by the steering pivot point from the front to back of the vehicle. Caster is positive if the line is angled forward, and negative if backward.

Caster
Caster


Toe represents the angle derived from pointing the tires inward or outward from a top-down view – much like looking down at your toes and angling them inward or outward.

Toe-in
Toe-in
In the Volvo Greenbooks and Haynes you can find the following specifications:

Camber: 0.5 degrees positive
Caster:  0 - 0.5 degrees
Toe in: 0 -0.4 mm

However to get a better grip I choose for the following specs:

Camber: 0.4 degrees negative
Caster:  1.0 degrees
Toe in: 0.35 mm

Camber and Caster adjusted with shims Volvo Amazon
Camber and Caster adjusted with shims

Toe-in adjusted by turning steering rod Volvo Amazon
Toe-in adjusted by turning steering rod
After the wheel alignment it felt like driving a new car home. Wheel alignment is worth every cent and you'll also save your tyres and rod joints. 

Jun 13, 2014

GT wheels Volvo 122S

It's a matter of taste but I've always loved the GT rims on the Volvo 122S. So when the Amazon was almost ready I started the hunt for 4 steel GT wheels. Second hand ones are  hard to find and expensive. Luckily there are reproduction GT wheels for sale. But be careful! There are good and bad repro GT wheels.

You can recognise the good ones: they will have a TUV label. This label will assure the quality of the rims. The ones I bought were made in Denmark.

TUV-label GT wheels Volvo 122S

When I got the GT wheels I filled the seams with clear coat to keep the rust away. I also treated the surface with A-Glaze for extra protection.

New Volvo GT rims Volvo 122S
New Volvo GT rims Volvo 122S

New Volvo GT rim Volvo 122S
New Volvo GT rim Volvo 122S

 Volvo GT wheel Volvo Amazon
 Volvo GT wheel Volvo 122S

 Volvo GT wheel Volvo 122S 5.5 inch
 Volvo GT wheel Volvo 122S 5.5 inch

 Volvo GT wheel Volvo 122S

 Volvo GT wheel Volvo 122S

 Volvo GT wheel Volvo 122S


The Volvo GT wheels have the following specifications:
Type:  613014
Size: 15 x 5.5
Offset:  14 mm
Holes: 5
Colour:  Silver

Tyre choice: Kuhmo KH17  195/65/R15 91H

5.5 inch GT wheel Volvo 122S
5.5 inch GT wheel Volvo 122S

5.5 inch GT wheel Volvo 122S
Volvo 122S on the beach

May 18, 2014

Industrial Photoshoot

Today we took the Amazon for a photoshoot.
It's an Industrial area just a couple of miles away from were I live.
Sunday is the best day to do it because there's less traffic, actually there was no traffic at all..
Here are the results... Next week or so we gonna try a photoshoot at night in the same area.

Volvo Amazon
Volvo 122S B20B 1969

Volvo Amazon
Industrial photo shoot Volvo 122S B20B 1969

Volvo 122S Amazon 1969 blue 99
Industrial photo shoot Volvo 122S B20B 1969

Industrial photo shoot Volvo 122S B20B 1969

Industrial photo shoot Volvo 122S B20B 1969

Industrial photo shoot Volvo 122S B20B 1969

Volvo 122S B20B 1969
Industrial photo shoot Volvo 122S B20B 1969

Volvo Amazon
Industrial photo shoot Volvo 122S B20B 1969

Volvo 122S mediterranean blue 99
Industrial photo shoot Volvo 122S B20B 1969

Volvo Amazon B20B 1969
Industrial photo shoot Volvo 122S B20B 1969

Volvo Amazone B20B 1969
Industrial photo shoot Volvo 122S B20B 1969

Volvo Amazon medium blue 99
Industrial photo shoot Volvo 122S B20B 1969

Volvo Amazone
Industrial photo shoot Volvo 122S B20B 1969

May 5, 2014

K camshaft Volvo 122S

When I rebuilt the B20B engine the original C camshaft was replaced with a sportier (+12 HP) new K cam.
The valve clearance for an original B20B engine is 0.50 - 0.55 mm, so that's what I used for the first 200 miles.or so. However the valve clearance for a K camshaft in it's original engine, the B20E from 1974, should be 0.40 - 0.45 mm.

K-camshaft Volvo B20
K-camshaft Volvo B20

There's a lot of info on Internet about camshafts and they all say that the camshaft dictates the valve clearance.

Specifications Volvo K-cam
Specifications Volvo K-cam

It made me wonder what the impact of a bigger or smaller valve clearance would be upon engine performance.

Let's take the valve clearance 0.50 -0.55 mm (original C-cam) used  for a K-cam which should be 0.40- 0.45 mm (in its original engine). So the clearance for the K-cam is 0.1 mm too big.
A bigger than advised clearance is bad for you engine as the rocker will "hammer" the valve harder than normal, especially when the lobes are steep, and the valve will hit the valve seat with a higher than desired speed.....
Valve clearance too big
Valve clearance too big


Valve lash too big animation
Valve lash too big animation

A too big valve lash will also create a smaller overlap (time that both the inlet and outlet valve are open), shorten the duration and give less lift, so less power (because the greater the lift the greater the power at all rpm). Hmmm...., ok first some cam basics:


Cam basics


Camshaft lobe basics
Camshaft Lobe basics

Normally the lash ramp is less steep than the opening and closing ramp, which will result in a lower velocity (speed) of the valve. If your valve lash/clearance is to big the push rod will already have reached a high speed before it  hammers the rocker, the rocker will smash the valve stem and the valve will smash the valve seat. Driving too long with a too big valve clearance will damage the engine for sure.




The duration (duration of the valve lift) is the time that a valve is open during a cycle. For the K-cam it's 277°. If you know the intake opening and closing moment you can also calculate the duration; opening 27° before TDC + closing after 70° BDC +180° (from TDC till BDC is always 180°) = 277°
You have to realise that normally the cam angle specifications are given in crankshaft degrees. One turn of the camshaft is equal to two turns of the crankshaft. So the 277°advertised duration is only 138.5° on the cam. To make it even more complex; A cam can have more duration numbers. Duration normally refers to the number of crankshaft degrees that the lift is greater than a specified value, e.g. duration at 0.050 lift. So it's really important to know the specified value when talking about the duration of a cam.
The earlier mentioned 277° duration is based on 0.020 inch lift. When we take the angles at 0.050 inch lift, 0° and 42°, the duration will be 222°. So if you want to compare camshafts keep this in mind!
The K-cam has the same  intake and exhaust duration, if the opening and closing time for  intake and exhaust aren't the Intake- and Exhaust Duration will be different.

Overlap: The time between the the  intake Valve opening point BTDC and the Exhaust Valve closing point ATDC, in crankshaft degrees.
Formula to calculate Overlap:
 intake opens + Exhaust closes
K-cam: 27° + 27° = 54°

Lobe Centerlines: The  intake centerline is the point of highest lift on the  intake lobe. It is expressed in crankshaft degrees after top dead center (ATDC). Likewise the exhaust centerline is the point of highest lift on the exhaust lobe. It is expressed in crankshaft degrees before top dead center (BTDC). The cam centerline is the point halfway between the intake and exhaust centerlines.
Formula to calculate the Centerlines:

Exhaust Centerline: Exhaust duration/2 - Exhaust closes
K-Cam: 277°/2 - 27° = 111.5°

Intake Centerline : Intake duration/2 - Inlet opens
K-Cam: 277°/2 - 27° = 111.5°

LSA: The angle between the intake and exhaust camshaft lobe peaks in camshaft degrees.
Formula to calculate the Lobe Separation Angle (LSA):
(Centerline Exhaust + Centerline Inlet) /2
K-cam: (111.5° + 111.5°) / 2 = 111.5°

Valve events graph Volvo K-cam
Valve events graph Volvo K-cam

Back to the quote "the greater the lift the greater the power at all rpm", is this true?  Yes, as long as the valve won't hit the piston and as long as the valve is big enough... let me try to explain the valve part:
Under ideal circumstances (perfect valve clearance), according to above given K-cam specifications, the max valve lift should be 10.67 mm. When the valve clearance is 0,1 mm bigger the max valve lift will be only 10.57 mm. so, will you loose power? The answer is it depends on the valve diameter.
Actually it's possible to calculate the maximum effective valve lift. It isn't hard to imagine that the maximum flow can never be greater than the area of the valve. First let's calculate the valve area; For the B20B 1969 engine the inlet valve diameter is 42 mm and the valve stem diameter is ca 7.96 mm.

The valve area is 0.25 x Pi(ca. 3.14) x valve diam² --> 0.25 x 3.14 (Pi) x 42² = 1384.74 mm² MINUS area valve stem 0.25 x Pi x valve stem diam (7.96 mm)² = 49.74 mm² --> 1335 mm²
Keep this in mind for later.

Area and max effective valve lift explained
Area and max lift


When a valve opens there's a three dimensional area that becomes bigger the further the valve opens. The formula to calculate this area is A = 2 x Pi x r x h. (r = half the diameter of the valve, h = lift of the valve). When A is the same as the area of the valve  it has reached the maximum flow, in other words the valve isn't obstructing the air flow anymore.  Let's calculate A for a K-cam in combination with a 42 mm inlet valve  -->  A =  2 x 3.14(Pi) x 21(r) x 10.67(h) = 1407.16 mm². So the K-cam lift is more than enough for my B20 engine with 42 mm inlet valves (because A = bigger than the valve area).

The maximum effective valve lift for my B20 engine is 10.12 mm (calculate h when A = 1335 mm²), the K-cam in my B20 engine will lift the valves an extra 0.10 mm (10.67 -10.22 - 0.45 mm valve lash) but it won't create more power.

The original engine (B20E) has a 44 mm inlet valve diam , so the calculated Valve area is 1519.76 - 49.74 =  1470.02 mm². The calculated A = 2 x 3.14 x 22 x 10.67 = 1474.17 mm² The maximum effective lift is 10.64 mm (1470.02/2/3.14/22 =10.64 mm). So to unleash all the power, the max lift (10.67 mm), minus the valve clearance must be at least 10.64 mm. But because the valve clearance for the K-cam is 0.40 - 0.45 mm the maximum valve lift will be only 10.22 mm (10.67-0.45 mm lash).

Are you still there? I know...
Luckily there's a rule of thumb that you can use to estimate the maximum effective lift:
Max effective valve lift is around 24-25% of the valve disc diameter.

Another important rule of thumb is: The exhaust valve area should be 75% to 80% of the intake valve area; since the exhaust gasses are less dense and under more pressure, the exhaust valve can be smaller than the intake valve. Note that this is area of the valve and not diameter.   
Let's take the 42 mm intake valve to calculate the diameter of the exhaust valve:
1384.74 mm² x 77%  = 1066.25 mm² = Exhaust valve area.
10.66.25/0.25/3.14 = 1358.28 = exhaustdiameter².
Exhaust diameter = 36.85 mm


Of course I didn't want burned valves, this can happen when the valve lash is too small, especially when driving at high rpm. Valves, especially the exhaust valves need a certain amount of  "contact time" with the valve seat in the cylinder head so they can get rid of the build up heat during the opening time of the valve (duration). 
The 1974 Volvo B20E engine with the original K-cam has exactly the same exhaust valves and valve seat width (width of the valve seat edge that's making contact with the valve when closed), but the inlet valve disc diameter is 44 mm instead of the 42 mm in the 1969 B20B, this will make it a bit hard to compare.


Volvo B18 and B20 engine specifications
Volvo B18 and B20 engine specifications

But ...The B20B has a lower compression ratio (CR), 9.5:1 vs. 10.5:1 in the B20E.

The higher the CR, the higher the cylinder pressure, the higher the cylinder temperature. The higher the compression ratio, the colder the spark plug needs to be. A good rule of thumb is to go about one heat range colder for each full point in compression ratio increase.  The term hot/cold is commonly used to describe whether a spark plug heats up easily (hot) or whether it provides resistance to heating up (cold).

The only thing is that Volvo advised a hotter spark for the early B20E than they did for the early B20B, which could indicate that the operating temperature of the B20E is a bit lower than the B20B.

But as the exhaust valves in the B20B and B20E are the same and this B20 engine has now hardened exhaust valve seats and a clean good working cooling system, I'm willing to take the risk, so I adjusted all the valve clearances to 0.45 mm and set the jets a bit richer. This resulted in a better driving 122S and a less noisy engine. I can still hear the tappets ticking but not as loud as before.


Volvo 122S
Volvo 122S

Apr 11, 2014

Dashboard lights in the Volvo Amazon

When I built in a new radio under the dash I kept the disconnected old school radio in the dashboard. According to the invoice it was installed in Brisbane in January 1971. It isn't working anymore but it's still a really cool piece of art.

Invoice 1971 National Car Radio Volvo Amazon
Invoice 1971 National Car Radio

Just out of curiosity I opened the radio to check the inside.

Inside the old National Car Radio Volvo Amazon
Inside the old National Car Radio

Aha, a 9 mm bulb holder with a 4W clear bulb in it ,that's an easy fix. I replaced the clear bulb with a green one and disconnected the + lead from the pot-meter.

Disconnection the power lead early 70's National Car Radio
Disconnection the power lead

Testing the car radio light Volvo Amazon
Testing the rewired car radio light

Before I closed the radio I tested the bulb, all good. The light is now connected to the light switch in the Volvo.

Broken old school radio now in use as an extra dashboard light
Broken old school radio now in use as an extra dashboard light

Old school seventies Car Radio Volvo 122S
Close up

I also wanted to replace the smaller 7 mm bulb in the tacho for a green one but still couldn'f find one. So I took a pemanent marker and coloured the bulb, not perfect but it looks better than the clear version.

Removing the bulb holder from the Smiths tachocVolvo Amazon
Removing the bulb holder from the Smiths tacho

9 mm 4W standard - and 7 mm 2W tacho bulb 12V
9 mm 4W standard - and 7 mm 2W tacho bulb

"coloured" green tacho lightbulb
"painted" tacho lightbulb

Smiths tacho with green back light
Smiths tacho with green back light

Even the clear shelf light  wasn't safe and replaced by a green version.

Green shelf light Volvo Amazon
Green shelf light Volvo 122S

Dashboard lights Volvo Amazon
Dashboard lights Volvo Amazon

Speedo meter Volvo Amazon
OK, one more