The drivers seat and rear were in bad condition after 44 years; rips, brittle and sun burned spots all over. When I tried to clean the drivers seat it cracked. Time for some new upholstery.
Taking of the vinyl upholstery is an easy job, fitting the new ones is a bit more difficult. I made lots of pictures so I knew exactly how everything was held together with rings and staples.
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| Old back seat rest Volvo 122S |
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| Wooden bottom old back seat rest Volvo 122S |
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| Old and new backseat rest covers Volvo 122S |
When fastening the new cover always start in the middle and then work to both corners evenly. While fitting all the rings en shooting the staples I compressed the springs in the back rest by leaning on the wooden bottom with my knees.
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| Fitting new upholstery |
The seat rest with new cover looked great without wrinkles outside the car, but when I put it back in the car it got some wrinkles at both sides. Maybe they go away after a while, maybe not..
The drivers seat was also in bad condition. Fitting back the new upholstery at the bottom of the rest is a bit fiddly, it's a tight fit with the metal pins. But with some borrowed kitchen tools and some @#$%!!#% you can do it...
The black metal parts were already painted with Por15 a couple of months ago.
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| Fitting the upholstery Volvo 122S drivers seat |
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| Fitting the upholstery Volvo 122S drivers seat |
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| New upholstery Volvo Amazon drivers seat |
I also put in new carpet on the floors. Instead of one carpet/rug for the back, two for the front seats and one for the console I choose for 2 long pieces from the firewall till the backseat and 1 long one for the whole console. I made templates from masking paper. Always take 5mm extra when cutting the shape. I used a heat gun to make the corners fit without wrinkles. Don't come to close to the carpet otherwise it will melt. It's inavoidable to have some wrinkles, but after the carpet is glued to the floorpan you can roll most of wrinkles/bumps out with a big socket. I made the holes for the bolts with a soldering iron. It will create nice holes with melted (= stronger) edges.
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| New piece of carpet for the Volvo |
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| Making templates for the carpet |
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| More carpet templates |
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| Cutting the carpet |
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| "Fine tuning" the new carpet |
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| making the console template |
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| making holes with a soldering iron |
I only glued the carpet at the rear floorpans and whole console. So if there's a leak or something in the future it's easy to check under the carpet in the front
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| Glue |
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| Removing wrinkles with a heat gun and a big socket |
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| Drivers side |
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| New carpet for the Volvo 122S |
The kick boards and other cardboard panels got a new coat of paint. I used exterior acrylic wall paint. Flat off white for the rear shelf and satin black for the black panel parts.
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| Rear shelf / panel |
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| Rear shelf painted with exterior acrylic wall paint |
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| Cardboard panels Volvo 122S |
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| Painted cardboard panels Volvo 122S |
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| Fitting the windlace seals between headlining and body |
For now I'll leave the front seats out so it's easier to work under the dash when installing the engine and doors. And I still have to clean the headlining.....
Hi
ReplyDeleteNice job. What size piece of carpet would you say you need? i estimate from my old piece to need around 4m x 2m....reckon that would do it all?
Hi, I think it was a piece of 2m x 2.25m and I even had some left overs
DeleteHi, thanks for sharing your restoration. I have a 65 122s 2 door that needs new interior, can you recommend a source for replacement seat upholstery covers?
ReplyDeleteHi Silas, try www.slubo.nl
ReplyDeleteGreat Blog.
ReplyDeletePlease give more detail on the."...But with some borrowed kitchen tools and some @#$%!!#% you can do it..."
I have a similar problem and don't understand how you used the kitchen tools or which sequence to use for inserting the large diameter and small diameter rods
Harald
How long would you say it took you to complete this project
ReplyDeleteI am stuck, unable to remove the top portion of the backseat (and patiently waiting for a manual to arrive)- any trick to it?
ReplyDeleteAt the bottom on each side is a ring/eye with a hook from the chassis through it. Just bent the metal "hooks" and lift the beack rest up so the brackets at the top will slide out of the eyes. You can see the brackets and eyes from the back rest in the 2nd and 4th pic. Good luck.
ReplyDelete